Unsure how to choose the right size bike? Do you need bike geometry explaining? or just curious about bike sizing? Read on!
So, you're looking for a new bike and you're trawling the internet looking at all the fancy specifications listed on the shops website. You like the carbon wheels or electronic gears (maybe both if you're really fancy!)How much attention have you paid to the geometry chart on the website? Lots, some, or maybe none at all!
I'd say the geometry of a bike or the "fit" of a bike is more important than the spec every time. If a bike doesn't fit your body right, you'll struggle to get any kind of power out on those climbs, and it will more than likely handle very poorly downhill! There are a few key measurements you need to bear in mind when choosing a bike that fits.
So, you're looking for a new bike and you're trawling the internet looking at all the fancy specifications listed on the shops website. You like the carbon wheels or electronic gears (maybe both if you're really fancy!)How much attention have you paid to the geometry chart on the website? Lots, some, or maybe none at all!
I'd say the geometry of a bike or the "fit" of a bike is more important than the spec every time. If a bike doesn't fit your body right, you'll struggle to get any kind of power out on those climbs, and it will more than likely handle very poorly downhill! There are a few key measurements you need to bear in mind when choosing a bike that fits.
Head
tube -
This is the tube at the front of the bike, that your forks slot through and
your stem/bars attach to. I suggest for leisure/sportive riders, the higher the
better to bring you into a more relaxed position. For racing cyclists I usually
recommend a shorter head tube to allow that aggressive aero position that saves
energy during races!
Seat
tube -
This is the tube that your seat post slots into, its height will ensure that
your correct saddle height is achievable. Too short and you won't be able to
get your saddle height right without a super long post. Too long and you won't
be able to drop your saddle low enough to get the correct seat height!
Top
tube -
This is the tube that runs between the head tube and seat tube. It's length
determines the reach of the bike. If it's too long for you, you'll struggle to
reach the bars without a tiny stem (this brings the handling quite twitchy and
horrible!). If the top tube is too short for you, you'll end up doing the
opposite and bringing the stem longer to compensate which can make the bike
handle slowly and almost wallowy in some cases.
Stack
& Reach - Stack is the distance (measured vertically) from
the centre of your frame's bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.
Reach is the distance (measured horizontally) from the centre of the
bottom bracket to the top of the head tube. Over the years, I've come to realisation
that head tube and top tube are most important (in my opinion anyway!) as
without these being correct, you'll end up with a really wacky position to
compensate for a stack/reach that doesn't suit you.
I've put together a rough guide for sizing if you can't get in for a bike fit prior to purchasing your new bike. In an ideal world, you'd come see me before a fitting as I can advice very accurately on bike size, but if you can't get in, base your size on the tables below and come see me when you've got it!
I've put together a rough guide for sizing if you can't get in for a bike fit prior to purchasing your new bike. In an ideal world, you'd come see me before a fitting as I can advice very accurately on bike size, but if you can't get in, base your size on the tables below and come see me when you've got it!
Here's the Mens guide:
and here's the Womens guide!
If you would like any more information or help on bike sizing or which bike size to choose please do get in touch. You can contact me via any method on www.yorkshirebikefitting.co.uk , Stephen@yorkshirebikefitting.co.uk or call me on 07903532455
